“Edinburgh isn’t so much a city, more a way of life… I doubt I’ll ever tire of exploring Edinburgh, on foot or in print.“
– Ian Rankin
Dimly narrow passages lead to cobbled yards; large green squares encased by great glass restaurant frontages; quaint shops adjoined by speciality coffee shops bustling with students and beachgoers watching swimsuit-clad individuals run into the freezing North Sea, make Edinburgh what it is.
A city.
But is it really?
In the few years I’ve been here the same phrase keeps popping up: Edinburgh isn’t a city, it’s a collection of towns. This collection of towns is separated by building types (old to new) or train tracks that crisscross their way out of the city past the greenery of Princes Street Gardens and the scaffold-draped columns of the National Gallery.
From the New Town to the Old Town, from Marchmont to Stockbridge and beyond into the outer regions and the famous Pentland Hills, Edinburgh truly has everything, even if it is a mix and match of different bits.
I think that’s why I never seem to get bored of being here. Yes, it’s overpriced, as any city is these days, and there’s an unusually yeasty smell that comes with living in the vicinity of a large brewery and oatcake factory which contrastingly just smells like sugary golden syrup. However, it’s the variety of things in this city that brings such charm. There’s an element of every character imaginable. If you fancy old buildings, cobbled streets and the long history of a famous castle there’s plenty. If you prefer quiet walks, beachfront ice cream and quaint shops full of unusually shaped earrings it has that too. If you prefer hills and slopes there’s an entire ski slope to the west. Or even if there’s nothing you enjoy, I’m sure this city could cough something up that you least expect.
As for the people. I say this about most places I’ve visited but they are the best part. There is a saying that if you are standing at a bus stop with a person from Glasgow, by the time the bus arrives you will have learned their entire life story. If it were someone from Edinburgh you’d be met with stony silence. I honestly can’t attest to this being true as some of the kindest people are those I have encountered from Edinburgh. The city of coffee shops certainly offers some of the friendliest baristas I have ever met and thus some of the best cakes on earth. But mostly I would say the happiness of people in this city can be attributed to the culture of walking here. Everyone walks here and it’s a beautiful thing because the bus system is not to be frowned upon. People seem to just prefer to walk everywhere because there’s just so much beauty to walk past. Take Marchmont as an area for example. The four-storied blocks of flats that stretch on for three or more streets offer wonderful views into the lives of those within, through enormous bay windows dating back to the 19th century. From ceiling-high jungles of plants to impressive desks or cat beds situated at windows, this area feels lived in and gives any newcomer a sizeable but subtle peak into the lives of those who dwell and walk here.
The Old Town is filled with much older buildings that feature smaller windows but instead impressive cathedrals, whiskey distilleries and winding roads like the famous Victoria Street that is said to have provided inspiration for Diagon Alley. Antique-style frontages display the small shops within from Harris Tweed sellers and candle makers to bustling charity shops, where hidden gems are very likely to be found.
To the north-east lies Portobello and the wide sandy beaches of the same name. The town centre itself (because it really is a collection of towns) is unique with a few bakeries and plant shops as well as a noticeable town clocktower that sits roughly two streets back from the expansive sandy beach. This wonderfully long stretch of coastline is home to older arcades with original painted frontages, window-service pizza places and a beautiful promenade that any runner would enjoy. The best part though, and I may be a little biased, is the lack of rocks and therefore an excellent surface on which to run and jump into the icy waves. The magic of Portobello is that no matter the time of year or the time of day you will see groups of people go for swims into the ocean. If this is where I lose you that’s okay, wild swimming isn’t for everyone. However, if you are ever in the vicinity around the beginning of March, the International Women’s Day sunrise swim attracts hundreds of people to run into the water together in aid of women’s charities in Edinburgh. I have experienced this day twice now and can attest to the energy being the best thing ever. So much positivity, warmth and confidence in one place.
Now, to narrow Edinburgh down to just a few places would be an injustice as there are so many more areas of the city that are both beautiful and present an interesting history. Also to tell you about places before I have even been to them yet would be untruthful so instead I’ll tell you about my favourite.
Stockbridge.
After crossing over the river past The Pantry (definitely a top 5 brunch restaurant) and the I. J. Mellis Deli, you emerge onto a semi-busy street bordered by florists, uniquely named pubs and a Boulangerie. Passing the Rare Bird bookshop dedicated to women’s literature and a few charity shops, you can spot a few small sandwich places and another window selling twisted candle sticks and mugs in all colours. Finally, at the end of the terraced shops you come to a larger building lying further back from the street, that hosts other businesses each with glass covering every inch of the front. From there you can either go buy a plant from the garden centre at the end or shop for bespoke wooden furniture, or as I like to call it, ‘browsing a shop in which I can’t afford anything, but it’s still nice to look at’.
There are so many elements to this city of towns that make it an incredible place to live. Of course, since it is January, the east wind is no joke. However, in the summer, the masses descend on The Meadows for barbecues, ball games and sunbathing, while others salsa dance or compete fiercely in workout drills. Either way, you’ll likely be greeted by a friendly dog trying to eat your lunch but it won’t matter because it’s sunny and there are no problems when it’s sunny.
No matter the season, there are reasons to love this place. As a student it is possibly one of the best places to live because of the community and the sense of community can be found everywhere. In the groups of dog walkers that congregate in the park for coffee. In the swim groups that run shrieking into cold water every week no matter rain, shine or snow. In the running groups that do laps around the blocks of Scots baronial-style flats in Marchmont. In a book club, I walk past those who sit in a circle of deck chairs in the park to compare their favourite pages this week. In the every day of existing in the beautiful city.
For Wanderers and Wonderers 